2005 Shell and Bone White

The 2005 Shell And Bone White once again features Viognier and Roussanne grown in the hills west of Paso Robles, where the soil consists of fractured and decomposed limestone and clay; the remnants of an era when the region was largely undersea. When I first had the opportunity to work with grapes grown in clay-limestone soils, I quickly realized why so many of the world's great wines come from such soils. The aromatic qualities of wines grown in limestone derive from it a kind of dynamic tension, what is referred to by some as "nerve" or "nervosity." It's the kind of thing that can make the hair stand up on the back of your neck, in extreme cases. (No cause for alarm, just pay attention!) The sense of place in such wines is unmistakable.

FRUIT SOURCE:

Viognier from the Rozet Vineyard,, a mile or so West from Highway 101, and roughly a quarter mile North from Highway 46 West. Roussanne from the Tablas Creek Vineyard, near the junction of Vineyard Drive and Adelaida Rd. Both vineyards on vertical shoot-positioned trellis.

WINEMAKING NOTES:

Whole-cluster pressed, and fermented in 22 year-old French Puncheons, spontaneous ml in wood. Most of the Roussanne and all Viognier transferred to stainless in April '06, bottled end of August.

WINEMAKER'S TASTING NOTES:

Bright gold-green, nose of apricot, honey, ginger and pepper. Very silky and ample on the palate, with minerally texture, and gorgeous long finish. Still a good deal of baby-fat; some patience should pay dividends in 2-3 years, but resistance may be futile, it's pretty seductive.

• Production: 280 cases
• Suggested Retail: $20.00
• Release Date: 2006

Produced And Bottled By Thirsty Pagans With Big Ideas, under the direction of Steve Edmunds, winemaker.