1997 Viognier "Alban-Durell"
Viognier in California seems, if it is to develop typical aroma and flavor, to produce high-alcohol wines, except in very cool growing sites. John Alban, who is an exceptional grower, sold us some fruit in '97 that informs this wine from first sniff right through to the bottom of the glass. The grapes are from limestone soil in Edna Valley (San Luis Obispo County) from low-yielding vines. The wine they produced smelled of apricots and lime blossom, and had bracing acidity, even after malolactic. The Viognier from Durell, by contrast, had low acidity, high alcohol, lots of body and great spice (cracked peppercorn, ginger) and fat. By combining the two, a wonderful balance was achieved -- the acidity in the Alban wine was tamed a bit, the alcohol in the Durrell lifted the wonderful aromas in the Alban, and a very Condrieu-like expression was revealed. This wine has been a smash hit with 99.8% of the people who've tried it, and especially encouraging, people who had never even heard of Viognier before have loved it. It's especially nice with smoked mussels, garlicky bean purées, goat cheese and figs, cantaloupe and prosciutto. Marvelous with lobster, prawn and crab dishes. Suggested retail: $20.00 |
Gatepost to Durell Vineyard |
