1998 Rocks and GravelChain Gang Blues. Subtext is everything. That's what I heard myself say as the impulse to unveil our '98 version of Rocks and Gravel began to emerge. What the hell could it mean? Well, it's true that with some wines there is what goes on in the mind, and with others there is also what goes on in the body. In the mind, we are taught to observe color/clarity; aroma/bouquet; body/balance/flavor; overall quality, or some similar mix of parameters to quantify and tabulate. Very analytical. In the body, well, it's a whole different kettle of fish (oooh,stop that!). Does one sniff invite me in? Does a second sniff take me in farther? Do I feel like there's an ocean (or at least a lagoon) down in this wine that beckons me? Do the aromas change the way the world looks to me? Does the hair on the back of my neck rise in anticipation of the flavor? Is there a spasm of pleasure that shakes me as the wine reaches my tongue? Is the flavor something I merely wrap my mouth around, or is it my entire body that embraces this pleasure? Do I pour another glass? You get the idea. I think, with the wines in the "body" category, there is a period, after they're first bottled, when they get bumped over into the "mind" group, and if you taste them then, they don't elicit much enthusiasm. You can't get your mind off how flattened out they taste. Then after a few months they begin to move from one realm to the other -- "mind" to "body", and all hell begins to break loose. It's like when your children become fully toilet trained. Or when your dad first entrusted you with the car keys. (Are we regressing here?) The world is suddenly so different. The moment has arrived. Here we have a wine, roughly 62% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 16% Mourvèdre, that wants to dance with you. The Syrah, from the oldest vines at Durell, and the Grenache, from old vines in Ukiah, are the same sources as for the '97 Rocks and Gravel. The Mourvèdre, from a new planting in the Sierra Foothills, near the American River, is the wild card here, and it provides a good deal of the wine's spicy character, and its meatier notes, as well. This vintage features much silkier tannins than the '97, not to mention more immediate pleasure. The 1998 Rocks and Gravel smells like rose, bitter cherry, raw beef, coffee, and spice. Body is medium to full, flavors broad and sweet, suggesting dark fruits, spice and mocha. Tannins are of the round and melting kind, and the finish is both long and pleasing. This baby has begun to rock! Suggested retail: $18.00 |
Old vine Grenache,
Durrell Vineyard Syrah
Izay Growers Mourvèdre |
