"Bone-Jolly"
2002 Gamay Noir au Jus Blanc
El Dorado County
There has, apparently, never been an intentionally-planted Gamay
vineyard in California before. Those grapes that have tried to pass for
Gamay, here, impostors all, have never produced wines whose flavors
echoed any of the vivacity, the joyousness that is the hallmark of the
better crus of Beaujolais. If Gamay is planted in the right spot, and
farmed and vinified properly, it can produce wine that brings a smile
to every heart, a lightness to each step, and jolly-ness to the table
where it's poured. The wines aren't profound, but they remind me that
simple pleasure is as much a necessity of life as breathing in and out.
The 2002 "Bone-Jolly" is our first effort with the variety, and
while we have ever so much to learn, the spirit is there, in the bottle,
in the glass. I think we're on the right track.
FRUIT SOURCE: Crystal Springs Vineyard, at 3400'
elevation, above Camino, in El Dorado County, planted, at my instigation,
by Ron Mansfield, who also farms Wylie
and Fenaughty vineyards for
us. The elevation, the slope to the north, and the volcanic clay-loam
soil all work together to produce grapes that will ripen fairly slowly,
which is critical for the development of perfume and finesse.
WINEMAKING: Grapes picked August 29, and destemmed into small,
open-top vessels, cap punched down 2-3 times daily. Cuvaison 10 days,
pressed into 16 year old French puncheons. Racked in March, '03, after
malolactic completed in barrel, into stainless barrels. Bottled in July,
'03.
WINEMAKER TASTING NOTES: Bright red in the glass, a shade
of blue/purple at the rim. Somewhat shy nose of violets, pepper, wild
red raspberry. Fine textured with nice cut from acidity and juicy
tannins. A bit more fat than one might encounter in most Beaujolais
(though the alcohol is 12.9%, modest for California). Suave flavors of
raspberry and strawberry, vaguely suggestive of Pinot Noir (the way that
cru Beaujolais sometimes suggests red Burgundy), yet not so enigmatic,
or ambitious. Lean, nervy finish.
PRODUCTION: 170 cases
SUGGESTED RETAIL: $16.00-$18.00
PRODUCED AND BOTTLED BY INTUITION AND BLIND LUCK
Under the direction of Steve Edmunds, winemaker.
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