Bassetti Vineyard, Cambria

If you head west on Highway 46 from Paso Robles, just a few miles before you reach Highway 1, near Cambria, there's an intersection on the right, nearly hidden by eucalyptus trees and bay laurel. That road leads through old cattle pasture at the base of a small canyon. Once through, the land opens out into a magical little valley surrounded by the kind of majestic rolling hills for which the Golden State is known. In the midst of that valley is the Bassetti property. Ellis Bassetti grew up along this road (though Ellis, himself, might argue that he'll never grow up.) and he and his wife Suzie have raised flowers and herbs there for years, and Suzie has fashioned this beautiful greenery and herbiage into beautiful wreaths that are sold by mail order all over the country.

They carried on this near-idyllic enterprise in the shadow of a magnificent 5 acre knoll that sits amid their property, nearly adjacent to the barn. It's a steep and rocky affair, great exercise just walking bottom to top and back down, from one end to the other. When I first saw it, it was as plain to me as the nose on my face what that hill was there for, but it took a while for Ellis to figure out, I guess, that this knoll was virtually begging him to plant grapes on it. Then, when he did figure that out, it turned out he thought the grape the site wanted was Cabernet Sauvignon. Fortunately, just in the nick of time, John Alban's and my paths crossed Ellis' trajectory, and we were able to convince him that, "no; it's Syrah that's needed here, Ellis. This is the perfect spot." You could see it the first time you drive into the place--there's practically a sign, saying: THE HILL OF GREATS: SYRAH ONLY!!!!!! Even the birds called out the name: Syrah! Syrah! Syrah!

The area, being as close as it is to the coast, is cool and mild in the summer AND in the winter months. So the vines begin growing early, in comparison to the vineyards further inland, but they ripen later. Perfect for wines of vivacity, balance, elegance. The steepness of the terrain, and the rocky soil build strength and intensity into the equation.

You watch -- this vineyard is going to stand up and shout!